lautnusantara.com_Japanese people are well known for their fondness for fish. Japan’s geographic location, situated at the meeting point of warm and cold ocean currents, makes its waters rich in marine resources.
One of the fish commonly found in Japan is tai, or sea bream. This fish inhabits the Sea of Japan and the North Pacific Ocean, living in open waters at depths of around 30–200 meters, and is also cultivated in prefectures such as Ehime and Mie. At a glance, sea bream resembles red snapper and is commonly served with rice as sushi or eaten raw as sashimi, similar to many fish dishes found in Japanese restaurants in Indonesia.
Some time ago, the Embassy of Japan in Indonesia introduced sea bream–based dishes to a number of journalists in Jakarta. On that occasion, two types of sea bream dishes were presented, namely sashimi (sugata-zukuri) and rice with sea bream (tai-meshi). Both dishes were specially prepared by the official chef of the Japanese Ambassador’s residence, Chef Hori.
Chef Hori first explained and demonstrated ike-jime, a technique of cutting the blood vessels near the gills of a live fish to drain its blood in order to preserve its flavor and quality. For Japanese people who are accustomed to eating raw fish, blood must be removed as it causes a fishy odor. The fish must also be processed immediately while still alive to minimize struggle. “Struggle or suffering of the fish will reduce its taste,” said Chef Hori.
If the fish is not processed immediately after being caught, it must be placed in a refrigerated room or cold storage. This technique is known as nojime.
Tai-meshi is cooked using Japanese rice, broth seasoned with shoyu, salt, and other spices, as well as sea bream meat. The broth is made by boiling water with fish bones that have first been grilled to reduce any fishy smell.
The ratio of rice to water is 1:1. The rice is cooked in a clay pot for 30 minutes over high heat until it boils. Once steam emerges from the hole in the lid, the heat is reduced and the rice is cooked for another 12 minutes. After that, the heat is turned off, and the final step is arranging slices of sea bream on top of the cooked rice, covering the pot, and letting it rest for 20 minutes. The fish slices cook using the steam from the hot rice.
Once ready, tai-meshi is served in small bowls and eaten with chopsticks.
Meanwhile, preparing sugata-zukuri sashimi is relatively simpler. The sea bream, which has been cleaned of scales, blood, and internal organs, is filleted by separating the meat from the bones and skin. The fish meat is then cut in two ways based on the grain of the flesh: flat slices (hirazukuri) and angled slices (sogizukuri).
According to the Japanese, the cutting method affects the texture of the fish. Hirazukuri slices result in firmer texture, while sogizukuri slices are softer. “What must be paid attention to in making sashimi is the cleanliness of the knife and cutting board, because the fish is eaten raw,” said Chef Hori.
Sashimi is usually served with vegetables that also function as garnish, such as daikon radish, carrots, cucumber, oba leaves, and wasabi. In addition to complementing the dish, these vegetables help reduce the fishy taste and refresh the palate.
With this style of dining, Japanese food enthusiasts can experience the authentic texture of sea bream, which is both firm and tender—similar to salmon sashimi. Meanwhile, the sea bream in tai-meshi has a rich savory flavor that pairs perfectly with fluffy, slightly sticky Japanese rice. Both dishes are further enhanced when enjoyed with soup containing tofu and seaweed. Despite the simple seasonings and cooking methods, sea bream dishes became the highlight of the Japanese culinary introduction event that afternoon.
In Japanese culture, sea bream carries a special meaning as a symbol of happiness. This fish is often served at various celebrations, or omedetai occasions in Japanese, especially wedding receptions.
The red and white coloring of sea bream is also considered an appropriate culinary choice to celebrate the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Indonesia and Japan, the series of events for which began on January 19. “The red and white colors of sea bream resemble the colors of the Indonesian and Japanese flags, which also consist of these two colors,” said Japanese Ambassador to Indonesia Masafumi Ishii.
Sea bream is regarded as a highly valuable fish by the Japanese, to the extent that there is a proverb saying, “Even when spoiled, it is still sea bream.” Because of its high price, Japanese people greatly appreciate sea bream even when its freshness has declined, said Chef Hori.
Sea bream caught from the wild can sell for around Rp2 million per kilogram once it reaches Indonesia, while farmed sea bream is priced at around Rp500,000 per kilogram.
In addition, Japanese people assign different values to the upper side (uwami) and the lower side (shitami) of the fish. In Japan, whole fish are always sold or served with the head facing left and the belly positioned at the bottom toward the buyer or diner. “The uwami is more valuable than the shitami because the lower side bears the weight of the upper part, causing its flavor to slightly diminish,” explained Chef Hori.
Sea bream tastes best when caught in spring (sakura tai), as it is in its spawning season and contains the highest nutritional value, and in autumn (momiji tai), when the fish has recovered its stamina after spawning and has high energy.
In Japanese belief, sea bream also symbolizes prosperity, as Ebisu—the god of wealth and fortune—is depicted wearing a fisherman’s outfit, holding a fishing rod and this type of fish. The figure of Ebisu is commonly found in restaurants serving fish dishes or in Japanese household kitchens.
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