lautnusantara.com Keeping ornamental fish is a delightful hobby. However, fish health often poses a challenge. Most diseases in pet fish are caused by stress and poor water quality. Recognizing disease symptoms early and knowing how to handle them is key to keeping your beloved fish healthy and your aquarium thriving.
Before discussing treatment, remember that prevention is better than cure. Focus on maintaining these three main factors:
Optimal Water Quality: Regularly test levels of Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Perform partial water changes (about 20–30%) weekly to maintain cleanliness. Ensure the temperature and pH are appropriate for your specific fish species.
Quarantine New Fish: Always quarantine any newly purchased fish in a separate tank for 7 to 14 days. This prevents the spread of potential diseases from new arrivals to your main aquarium.
Balanced Feeding: Provide high-quality food with complete nutrition and avoid overfeeding (uneaten food decomposes and spoils the water quality).
Here are some of the most frequent diseases affecting freshwater ornamental fish:
| Disease | Primary Cause | Characteristic Symptoms |
| White Spot (Ich) | Parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis | Appearance of small white spots resembling sprinkled salt/sugar on the body and fins. Fish are often seen rubbing their bodies against tank decorations due to itching. |
| Fungus (Saprolegnia spp.) | Saprolegnia fungus (attacks when fish are injured or stressed) | Presence of white, cotton-like strands or patches on the skin, fins, or wounds. Fish appear lethargic and lose appetite. |
| Fin Rot | Bacterial Infection (Aeromonas, Pseudomonas) | Fin/tail edges look white, frayed, or appear to be rotting. In severe cases, the fin may disappear entirely. |
| Bloating / Dropsy | Internal Bacterial Infection | Swollen belly and scales that stick out (like a pinecone). This disease is often difficult to cure. |
| Hole in the Head (HITH) | Parasite/Nutritional deficiency (common in Cichlids) | Appearance of small lesions or pits around the head and along the lateral line. |
If your fish shows signs of illness, immediately take the following actions:
Isolate (Quarantine): Move the sick fish to a separate quarantine tank to prevent contagion. The quarantine tank should be equipped with a heater and an air stone/aerator.
Improve Water Quality: Test the water in the main tank. Perform an immediate partial water change (25–50%) to reduce toxin levels (Ammonia/Nitrite).
Increase Temperature (For Parasites): Gradually raise the water temperature in the quarantine tank (1–2°C per hour) until it reaches 30–32°C (86–90°F) (only if your fish species can tolerate it). High temperatures can speed up the White Spot parasite's life cycle and help eliminate it.
Anti-Parasitic Medication: Use specific Ich or White Spot medication containing Methylene Blue or Malachite Green according to the instructed dosage.
Aquarium Salt: Add Non-Iodized Aquarium Salt (about 1 teaspoon per gallon of water) to the quarantine tank. Salt helps reduce stress and prevents secondary infections.
Combination: Combine increased temperature, Aquarium Salt, and Anti-Parasitic medication for the best results.
Anti-Fungal Medication: Use medication containing Methylene Blue or similar products.
Almond Leaves (Ketapang Leaves): Water soaked with dried almond leaves releases tannins that have mild anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, aiding recovery.
Wound Cleaning: If possible, clean the affected area with a cotton swab dipped in a mild antiseptic solution (like diluted povidone-iodine) before placing the fish in the medicated water.
Antibiotics: Use anti-bacterial medication available at the aquarium store (e.g., medication containing a broad-spectrum antibiotic).
Aquarium Salt: Always use Aquarium Salt to support the wound healing process.
Water Maintenance: Ensure the water is completely clean, as this disease is strongly linked to poor water quality.
Once the fish is cured, do not immediately return it to the main aquarium.
Recovery in Quarantine: Keep the fish in the quarantine tank for a few more days to ensure it is fully recovered and strong.
Main Tank Care: Perform a large water change (e.g., 50-70%) in the main aquarium and clean filters and decorations to eliminate residual pathogens.
Temperature Acclimation: Gradually return the water temperature in the quarantine tank to match the main aquarium temperature before transferring the fish.
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